Laboratoires Sérobiologiques launches anti-ageing skin care ingredient

Eterniskin LS 9881 is an extract from the Maitake mushroom, well-known in Asia for its health benefits, according to the company, which says the extract provides an ‘adaptogen approach’ to help skin overcome stress.

An adaptogen is a material that, when taken orally allows the body to counter adverse physical, chemical or biological stress, explained Anne-Laurie Rodrigues, communications manager at LS.

“The ‘adaptogen approach’ means that we have transferred the capacity of the Maitake mushroom to act as an adaptogen to the skin, in order to counteract (oxidative) stress to the skin and keep skin homeostasis (balance),” ​she told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.

Stimulating collagen synthesis​​

In addition to helping the skin overcome stress, Eterniskin has a stimulating effect on different types of essential collagens vital to maintaining a correctly structured collagen network and a high quality dermo-epidermal junction (DEJ), according to LS.

“The collagens that are most abundant in the skin, collagen types 1 and 111 are well known,” ​said Rodrigues. “There are however many different types of collagens that, even though they are only present in minor quantities in the skin, play a crucial role in the collagen structure of the network and the structure of the DEJ,” ​she added.

According to Rodrigues, Eterniskin was shown, using advanced gene-technology, to significantly upregulate gene coding for these different types of essential collagens.

“As a result, skin thickness, elasticity and firmness are increased. The newly synthesized collagens can act as endogenous fillers, plumping up the skin from the inside, resulting in smoother and more youthful looking skin,” ​she explained.

Clinical study shows increased elasticity and firmness​

A clinical study carried out on the ingredient showed an increase in skin elasticity and firmness, thus demonstrating Eterniskin’s ability to recover the skin’s youthful properties, according to LS.

Additionally, a further study was conducted to assess skin thickness. An emulsion containing 1.5 per cent Eterniskin was applied to the skin of ten volunteers over a 56 day period, the effects of which were measured against a placebo. The results showed that skin thickness improved by 5.5 per cent after treatment.

According to LS, the ingredient can be used in a variety of skin care applications including, anti-ageing, plumping and firming, anti-stress, restorative and regenerative face and body care.