Giving a presentation at in-cosmetics Milan, Rudd explained that the hi-tech beauty trend concerns sophisticated formulations that capitalise on advances in gene therapy and new anti-ageing actives such as epidermal growth factors and newer peptides.
Examples of hi-tech ingredients include fullerenes, sirtuins, animal-derived placenta and collagen, Human Oligopeptide-1 (EGF) and stem cells, with Mintel highlighting a raft of new products that incorporate one or more of these ingredients in to their formulation.
EGF, stems cells and horse-derived placenta
EGF Cream launched in the US by DHC contains the polypeptide EGF (epidermal growth factor) as well as vitamins, minerals and amino acids, and is said to fight against visible signs of aging and promote cell turnover to increase skin elasticity.
In Japan, Esthe Pro Labo has launched Outer Ageing Care Program Thoroughbred Placenta, a skin care range that contains fullerene, AG-11, hyaluronic acid, 18 herbs and alpha-arbutin. The key ingredient in the range is horse-derived placenta that is claimed to have anti-ageing and moisturising properties.
Anti-ageing skin care products that incorporate stem cells are also on the rise. US-brand Rhonda Allison has incorporated organic stem cell technology into several of its products. One such product is Nude Therapies Bio Reform 28, which contains apple stem cells that are said to inhibit elastase, and EGF to promote tissue growth.
Hi-tech crossover with down-to-earth
Hi Tech products are also tapping into to the down-to-earth trend, which focuses on the practical aspects of sustainability and green beauty such as reduced packaging, straightforward and simpler marketing and the evolution of chemical-free claims.
One such product identified by Mintel is the Bioeffect EGF serum launched in the UK that bears the Carbon Neutral Production label and contains sophisticated ingredients such as plant-derived EGF, cellular activators and hyaluronic acid.
In France, Singuladerm’s Xpert eye contour gel is another example of a hi-tech line that boasts down-to-earth claims. Specifically claiming to adhere to GMP (Good Manufacturing Practice) guidelines, the gel contains organic molecules, glycoproteins and peptides combined with innovative delivery systems that allow them penetrate and target the skin where it needs to be treated.