The squalene debate: China under the spotlight for cosmetics focused slaughters

30-Jan-2014 - Last updated on 24-Apr-2014 at 08:36 GMT

Despite various cosmetic companies investing in more sustainable alternatives to squalene, some specialised producers have been found to still be dealing in the shark liver in China.

A four year investigation has found that a Pu Qi factory in China’s Zhejiang Province had been slaughtering about 600 whale sharks every year to make oil for cosmetics and health products.

The company has been supplying the oil worldwide for the likes of lipsticks and skin care products, according to Hong Kong based marine conservation organization WildLifeRisk.

Although the trade of whale shark is technically allowed through the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES), the organization says that this factory is exporting to the US, Canada and Italy, in contravention of the binding CITES agreement.

"Evidence gathered points to an extensive trade network fanning out from China across the globe," the group said.

Questionable supplies..

Despite various cosmetic companies investing in more sustainable alternatives to shark liver oil (squalane), one expert believes that there are still issues with supply in that some specialised producers are passing off shark squalene as that of the more expensive plant alternative, unbeknownst to the large multinationals.

Founder of Bloom Association, Claire Nouvian told CosmeticsDesign-Asia.com that the cosmetics industry is the world’s greatest buyer of animal squalene oil and that while some may think that they are investing in plant-based alternatives; “suppliers can mislead as to the nature of the squalane they are selling.”

The main on-going use of animal squalene today is said to be down to financial reasons in that plant squalane (olive oil) is 30 per cent more expensive than that of the moisturizing, non‐greasy substance of the deep sea shark liver (8 to 12 euros per kilo), some of which are now in danger of extinction.

In light of these findings, Nouvian tells this publication that the industry can get on top of the matter by insisting that blind and random tests of squalane be carried out, as this will put pressure on suppliers to stand by where they are saying the squalane comes from.