Sun care: A crucial insight into innovation, trends and regulation

In the space of a few decades it has developed from very simple products, with little choice for consumers, to a mind-boggling area of targeted sunscreens, after sun and multifunctional products born out of raised awareness of the dangers of over exposure to the sun.

This newsletter contains four separate articles that each take a look at separate aspects of the industry, including the evolution of the multifunctional trend, how UV awareness is impacting the development of products and consumer habits, a look at the unique characteristics of the sun care category in Asia and an overview of the main issue on global regulation.

The role industry plays in sun damage awareness​

Sun care has taken centre stage so far this year and a lot has been made of raising awareness of the damage too much sun exposure can have on the skin. This makes protection products even more important and whilst we rightly look to protect against damage from ultraviolet rays, sun care maker Coty has been looking at another aspect.

Research into IR radiation began over 10 years ago and Coty has spent a lot of time studying free radicals that are caused by IR – a topic that itself is quite new.

The adverse effects of infrared radiation have not traditionally received as much attention as its UV cousins, but Marc Pissavini, Coty R&D director, tells Cosmetics Design that an excess of exposure to IRA rays can cause skin changes similar to those caused by UV light,​ namely, inflammation and premature photo-ageing.

The all-encompassing multifunctional trend​

This article looks at how innovative brands are advancing multifunction sun care and include insights from Deborah Hernan​, president of Ottilie & Lulu Naturals for Tweens as well as Christian Jurist, MD, Medical Director of Global Education with Pevonia International.

These experts illustrate how the latest products in this category are driving sales by inspiring more consumers to use sun care products every day while simultaneously meeting some basic cosmetic and skin care requirements.

The article also considers different segments in the multifunction sun care category - namely the youth market and colour cosmetics; how consumers opt for sun care products that accommodate their lifestyle; the importance of formulations that are safe, effective, and natural; and touch on what sort of messaging works well for multifunction sun care.  

Sun care in Asia​

Exposure to the sun is avoided by all means in Asia. People standing at a traffic light for example, instinctively choose to stand in the shade, or have a paper or umbrella to protect themselves.

This article focuses on what type of sun care protection Asian consumers are looking for and what they want to protect themselves from.​ Requirements are different in Asia, namely because consumers are looking to avoid the effects of pigmentation, rather than wrinkles.

According to Alain Khaiat, lighter skin has long been associated with a higher ranking - i.e. rich people lived in the house protected, while farmers worked in the fields outside. This association with skin tone has somewhat remained on the region, despite attitude changing in the West, where a tan in the winter is a sign of wealth, representing the luxury of a holiday.

The other reason the cosmetics industry veteran says, is physiological. The signs of ageing comes in the form of pigmentation irregularities on Asian skin, appearing as young as age fifteen.

Thus, protection is sought out in products that reverse or keep this damage at bay.

Global regulation of sun care products​

Global regulation of sun care products can often prove to be a significant challenge for manufacturers wanting to market products in multiple countries or regions, simply because the criteria are so diverse.

Cosmetics Design spoke to Carl Geffken of Geffken Consultants, who explained that one of the principle differences is the fact that sun care products are recognized as drugs in some markets, most notably in the United States, whereas in other markets such as Europe, they are considered to be cosmetics.​

This article then goes on to explain Geffken’s belief that, beyond the global differences, sun care regulation and compliance can be split into three specific areas: testing, labelling and ingredients, all of which is detailed in the article.