Mibelle launches Vin-upLift ingredient in China

The ingredient has previously been launched in both Europe and the United States, but the company has waited until now to launch it in the still fast-growing China market.

Cosmetics Design caught up with Dr Fred Zuelli, director of Mibelle Biochemistry Group, to find out about why the company is targeting the ingredient in this market right now.

Ingredient meets China's approval requirements​

“The challenge with marketing ingredients in China is that they have to be on the authority’s approved list, which is generally quite a lot more restricted than in any other major countries,” ​Dr. Zuelli said.

“As Vin-upLift is a grape vine derived ingredient, we are able to tackle this hurdle because ingredients derived from such materials are already on the authority’s pre-approved list.”​

The ingredient targets the anti-ageing category by claiming to provide an instant visible life, enabling users to refresh the look of their skin, rather than being marketed as a conventional anti-wrinkle product.

Consequently the ingredient is said to diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles in minutes and the effect lasts for hours, while also optimizing skin health by providing moisturisation.

The Swiss ice wine effect​

What adds to the intrigue behind the ingredient’s story is the fact that it is derived from Swiss ice wine, combined with a vegetal polysaccharide called tara gum.

Ice wine is derived from grapes that have been left until the first frost before harvesting, this means that the grapes are left with a higher concentration of juice ingredients that are only partially fermented and in turn deliver stringent properties to the skin.

The extraction process for the ingredient involves the ice wine being spray-dried onto a carrier polysaccharide from Caesalphina spinosa, or tara gum, which in turn allows the ice wine actives to fuse to the water-binding skeleton of the polysaccharide.

Ultimately this process removes all the alcohol, giving Vin-upLift results that are backed up with independent clinical trials.