Vitamin E derivative improves dark circles

Showa Denko (SDK), a leading manufacturer and marketer of chemical products, has found an ingredient that looks set to boost the cosmetics industry through improving the visibility and appearance of dark circles around the eyes.

The Japanese manufacturer has found that its "TPNa(TM)" water-soluble vitamin E derivative, which it sells as an ingredient for cosmetics, is successful in improving dark circles around the eyes.

Sodium dl-alpha-tocopheryl phosphate (TPNa) is a water-soluble vitamin E derivative that contains a unique chemical structure, developed by SDK.  

Approved by the Ministry of Health, the water-soluble TPNa shows anti-inflammatory and moisture-retention effects when used as an ingredient in cosmetics.

Dark circles around the eyes are a common cosmetics and beauty concern that consumers seek help with. Typically dark circles can be categorised into three types:

  • blue circles caused by low microcirculation
  • brown circles caused by accumulated blood-origin pigments
  • black circles caused by slackening or the depression of skin

In general, dark circles around the eyes are believed to be the result of a combination of all three types. Therefore, traditionally, cosmetics companies have developed products for dark-circle care that have mainly been created as mixtures of ingredients and therefore effective for each type of dark circles.

The TPNa Vitamin E derivative improves the circulation of the blood and metabolism. It is a single ingredient that has an increasing effect on enzymes that take part in the breakdown and removal of pigments that cause brown circles.

In a clinical test that lasted four weeks, TPNa was found to improve the L* parameters (numerical values indicating luminosities of skin colors) of the surfaces of lower eyelids in 82% of those examined.

After discovering the effectiveness of the vitamin E derivative, the company will now send shipments of TPNa as an ingredient for eye-care cosmetics.