Nanovetores specialises in encapsulation technology. These proprietary capsules are made from lipids and biopolymers using a water-based process.
These “rigid” capsules that only break with five specific triggers such as enzymatic, friction or pH. When utilised in fragrance for instance, this technology can create long-lasting scents. However, due to the high price, this will create, the company is pinning its future on active ingredients.
"We want to target active ingredients because the market is willing to spend more on actives,” said André Genovez, international business manager of Nanovetores.
The company began expanding internationally in 2014. By the end of this year, the company expects to have a presence in 42 countries in total.
Focus on Asia
Genovez told CosmeticsDesign-Asia that the company was performing well in Europe, North America and Latin America. With the company well-established in those markets, it is now turning its eye towards Asia to expand the business further.
“Asia is an outstanding market. The middle class consumes the most cosmetics and in Asia, there are millions of middle-class people coming up in the next few years. This is the right moment for us to focus on Asia,” said Genovez.
Currently, the firm has a presence in China, Vietnam, Japan and Indonesia. Genovez said the company will be looking into more Asian markets including The Philippines, Malaysia, Taiwan and South Korea.
“We want to cover the most important Asian markets in terms of cosmetics,” said Genovez.
To open itself to more opportunities in Asia, the company is hoping to obtain halal certification for its ingredients. Genovez said it will be the focus after it secures COSMOS certification.
Potential in whitening segment
He added that the firm hopes to capitalise on the strong demand for whitening cosmetic products in Asia with its vitamin C active.
“There’s a big problem in skin care – efficacy. Encapsulation protects the active ingredient. There’s a lot of vitamin C products on the market but they oxidise. By encapsulating vitamin C, it will remain stable for months. Our shelf life is 18 months,” explained Genovez.
He added: “Secondly, ascorbic acid is difficult to work with. It’s a powder and once you add water it oxidises within 30 minutes. Most people get around this by combining with different molecules, but you end up with a stabilised vitamin C that does not permeate the skin.”
Genovez further elaborated that at 200 nanometres, encapsulated actives are able to permeate until the dermis, overcoming the epidermis layer.