‘Go big or go home’? Branding expert rates Lunar New Year beauty collections

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Lunar New Year is a festival rich with symbolism and iconography but creating a successful special edition collection is not as easy as it looks. We speak to the creative director of Anthem Worldwide, Spencer Ball, to find out what makes a collection worthy of ushering the Year of the Rat.

Lunar New Year is a festival rich with symbolism and iconography but creating a successful special edition collection is not as easy as it looks. We speak to the creative director of Anthem Worldwide, Spencer Ball, to find out what makes a collection worthy of ushering the Year of the Rat.

The Lunar New Year is the perfect opportunity for brands to consumers how well they understand their culture.

Ball highlighted that the significance of the occasion sets very high stakes for brands.

It gives brands a fleeting opportunity to express themselves on different terms and to capture the current zeitgeist. For major festivals and brands there’s also a huge element of anticipation from consumers and the industry. How you respond can set the bar by which your brand will be judged for the rest of the year,” he told CosmeticsDesign-Asia.

For beauty brands looking to capitalise on this significant event, Ball’s advice is to go big or go home.

“You have to fully commit. Do it well or don’t do it at all. For packaging, this means investing creative time, doing the homework and planning production well in advance,” said Ball.

The instantly recognisable symbols and icons of Lunar New Year can be one of the biggest hurdles for a designer.

“We’ve witnessed how easily global brands can wrong-foot Chinese cultural taboos. The wealth of Chinese New Year iconography is visual playground for marketeers and designers but tread carefully and treat with the utmost respect,” cautioned Ball.

Red and gold are traditional colours of prosperity while each year is represented by one of the twelve zodiac animals from Chinese astrology. This year is the Year of the Rat.

“Any brand can slap on the red or apply this year’s animal to their packaging and promptly melt into the festive milieu… You need to find the intersection between your brand story and the theme of Lunar New Year. Then thoughtfully bring together your visual assets with well-chosen elements from the wealth of imagery associated with the Chinese calendar,” said Ball.

Instead, Ball highlighted that it was more important for brands to retain their authenticity.

“It doesn’t have to be original, but it absolutely has to look like it belongs your brand. An understated design approach can help avoid the annual cliché-fest, but then it must connect with your brand on a higher level and elevate the consumer experience.”

This year, Ball observed signs that more brands are taking a more long-term approach with their designs.

“Not surprisingly, there are plenty of rats – and mice posing as rats. But it’s good to see more brands not taking the zodiac path and exploring other themes and takes on their brand. There is more use of perennial symbols, but with a higher level of craft. This points to brands thinking of longer lifecycles and avoiding throw-away designs. Which would be a welcome approach given changing consumer attitudes towards packaging.”

Click through the gallery to see Ball’s thoughts on some of this year’s Lunar New Year beauty collections.

‘Go big or go home’? Branding expert’s assessment on Lunar New Year beauty collections
‘Go big or go home’? Branding expert’s assessment on Lunar New Year beauty collections

Lunar New Year is a festival rich with symbolism and iconography but creating a successful special edition collection is not as easy as it looks. We speak to the creative director of Anthem Worldwide, Spencer Ball, to find out what makes a collection worthy of ushering the Year of the Rat.

The Lunar New Year is the perfect opportunity for brands to consumers how well they understand their culture.

Ball highlighted that the significance of the occasion sets very high stakes for brands.

It gives brands a fleeting opportunity to express themselves on different terms and to capture the current zeitgeist. For major festivals and brands there’s also a huge element of anticipation from consumers and the industry. How you respond can set the bar by which your brand will be judged for the rest of the year,” he told CosmeticsDesign-Asia.

For beauty brands looking to capitalise on this significant event, Ball’s advice is to go big or go home.

“You have to fully commit. Do it well or don’t do it at all. For packaging, this means investing creative time, doing the homework and planning production well in advance,” said Ball.

The instantly recognisable symbols and icons of Lunar New Year can be one of the biggest hurdles for a designer.

“We’ve witnessed how easily global brands can wrong-foot Chinese cultural taboos. The wealth of Chinese New Year iconography is visual playground for marketeers and designers but tread carefully and treat with the utmost respect,” cautioned Ball.

Red and gold are traditional colours of prosperity while each year is represented by one of the twelve zodiac animals from Chinese astrology. This year is the Year of the Rat.

“Any brand can slap on the red or apply this year’s animal to their packaging and promptly melt into the festive milieu… You need to find the intersection between your brand story and the theme of Lunar New Year. Then thoughtfully bring together your visual assets with well-chosen elements from the wealth of imagery associated with the Chinese calendar,” said Ball.

Instead, Ball highlighted that it was more important for brands to retain their authenticity.

“It doesn’t have to be original, but it absolutely has to look like it belongs your brand. An understated design approach can help avoid the annual cliché-fest, but then it must connect with your brand on a higher level and elevate the consumer experience.”

This year, Ball observed signs that more brands are taking a more long-term approach with their designs.

“Not surprisingly, there are plenty of rats – and mice posing as rats. But it’s good to see more brands not taking the zodiac path and exploring other themes and takes on their brand. There is more use of perennial symbols, but with a higher level of craft. This points to brands thinking of longer lifecycles and avoiding throw-away designs. Which would be a welcome approach given changing consumer attitudes towards packaging.”

Click through the gallery to see Ball’s thoughts on some of this year’s Lunar New Year beauty collections.

Sulwhasoo
Sulwhasoo

“An elegant response that feels on-brand and is possibly timeless enough to welcome back year after year. And why not, it’s simply delightful. The outer box is beautifully finished as well.” Rating: 4/5

MAC Cosmetics
MAC Cosmetics

“’Lunar Illusions’ is ironically appropriate for this line. It’s the disappearing brand trick. What does this have to do with MAC? It’s a vibrant appropriation of Chinese motifs, but totally lacks authenticity. We love MAC’s boldness and inclusivity – but this is RuPaul in a Cheongsam.” Rating: 1/5

NARS
NARS

“Quite a progressive use of the classic red and gold that speaks about the product without getting embroiled in cultural iconography or rats which fits well with the NARS austere design aesthetic.” Rating: 3/5

Christian Louboutin
Christian Louboutin

“This is confusing. I’m not sure how the travel themed stamps relate to Lunar New Year. Even more troubling is that rat in the hat. Be gone!” Rating: 1/5

Calvin Klein Fragrances
Calvin Klein Fragrances

“The mouse and the CK logo… If you have to force it to work, then it was never meant to be.” Rating: 2/5

Laura Mercier
Laura Mercier

“The oriental scalloped pattern is restrained and pleasingly proportioned around the jar. This will still catch your eye well into new year.” Rating: 3/5

Lancôme
Lancôme

“An example of playing it safe with the seasons. The red could have worked for both New Year celebrations, but by including the year it picks a side and instantly dates itself.” Rating: 1/5

Estée Lauder — Expert's Pick!
Estée Lauder — Expert's Pick!

“Beautifully crafted designs that make creative yet restrained use of Chinese symbols. The charms on the Advanced Night Repair are instantly collectable!”

SK-II
SK-II

“Chinese New Year is a great opportunity to invite guest artists and other brands to collaborate, so well-done SK-II for this approach. However, choosing the world’s best-known rodent puts it in the same class as a hundred other brands, as well as a gazillion knock-off products you’ll see on market stalls everywhere. Mickey’s ‘pat-pat’ pose is a nice touch though, so worth the extra point.” Rating: 2/5

Charlotte Tilbury
Charlotte Tilbury

“The bare minimum colour change to red… Maybe it’s just enough, but nothing to get excited about or attract new fans.” Rating: 1/5

Hourglass
Hourglass

“It doesn’t feel like much thought went into this. The blossom and the rat look like stock graphics assembled on a red background.” Rating 2/5