Pigment play: Kolmar files patent for colour-changing formula that can ensure long-term ingredient stability

According to its international patent, which was published on September 17, Kolmar has developed a ‘capsule colouration cosmetic composition’​, which consists of two formulas that when combined will trigger the colour transformation.

Kolmar said this effect could help the product achieve a wow factor and encourage more usage among consumer.

“The appearance of the colour of the capsule being changed during use can increase the desire for consumption.”​

The change in colour can also serve as a cue to inform users of the functionality of the product.

“The function of the cosmetic composition can be expressed by colour so that they can be easily distinguished,” ​said the company.

Furthermore, this formula can give the perception of the efficacy of reliability, added Kolmar.

“The user can see that the capsule change as they mix the two formulations and therefore this can confirm to the user that the functional ingredients are contained inside the capsule, thereby increasing the reliability of the functionality of the cosmetic composition.”​

Transformative formula

According to Kolmar, previous attempts to create a colour-changing formula would involve breaking a capsule to release a colourant.

In order to achieve its objectives, the company developed two formulas – one that contains the capsules, and another formulation containing a coloured oil-soluble component.

The capsules are made of a mixed gum that is made out of acacia gum, gelatine or agar, and an oil-based emollient.

It noted that for this purpose, the use of natural pigments or oil-soluble pigments were preferred.

When the two are combined, the oil-soluble component is absorbed into the capsule which causes the colour change.

Ensuring stability

The company added that it developed this formula to do more than enhance the aesthetic effect of a product.

“The objective of the present invention is to provide a capsule that has high long-term stability while providing an aesthetic effect through a colour change.”​

Kolmar elaborated that because the second formulation does not contain any water, and since it must be separated from the first formulation before it reaches the end consumer, it could increase the long-term stability of ingredients.

It believes this formulation would be especially useful in the development of cosmeceutical, or derma, beauty products.

These products often use ingredients that are susceptible to deterioration by moisture, light, heat, and oxygen and must be stabilised in order to be used.

“Cosmeceuticals are gradually shifting to the direction of emphasising the effects on the skin such as skin whitening, anti-ageing, and acne relief. However, most of the ingredients as described above are chemically unstable… Therefore, in order to be applied to cosmetics, the original activity must be maintained without being altered during manufacturing and distribution,” ​said Kolmar.

WIPO International Patent no. ​WO/2020/184784​​

Publication date: September 17, 2020 ​

Inventor: Jang Sun Haeng, Hyun Seung Min, Ko Eun Ah, Han Sang Keun​

Applicant: Kolmar Korea Co.​