Staying power: Kosé-owned brand Visée develops new formulation for ‘long-lasting’ lipstick range

In recent years, Japanese brands like Shiseido’s Maquillage​ and Kanebo’s KATE​ have introduced various colour transfer-resistant lip products, mainly in response to the COVID-19 pandemic that has been characterised by mask-wearing.

Although wearing a mask is now less of a mandated requirement and more of a personal choice, it has not stopped Kosé Corporation-owned Visée from delving deeper into formulation technologies that boost the lasting power of makeup.  

Set to launch in May this year, Visée’s new “Nenmaku Fake Rouge” range consists of glossy lipsticks that are said to offer both lustre and colour retention.

The lipsticks are developed using a formulation that separates the colour layer and the coating layer.

“The coating ingredient (trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone) laminates the lips with a transparent and highly glossy film, which not only gives off a shimmering appearance, but also maintains long-lasting colour finish — with or without a mask,” ​said the Japanese cosmetics firm.

Designed to blend into any lip colour and enhance skin complexion, this series includes six colours, ranging from natural to deep shades.

Over the past few years, the “mucous membrane colour”, which refers to a colour similar to the skin tissue that line the lips’ interior surface, has gained popularity among consumers.

“Our lipstick in mucous membrane colour has a light and smooth texture, exuding a natural yet lustre look. It also makes the lips look fuller. The Nenmaku Fake Rouge range addresses the growing demand for products with high functionality, and we aim to increase the number of new Visée users through this launch.”  ​

Another product that will be released alongside the lipsticks is the Wide Trick Double Liner, which comprises both a liquid eyeliner and a concealer for eye bags.

“As the eyes tend to move a lot, they can mess up make-up easily. The Double Liner is formulated with ingredients that have excellent adhesion and staying power, and that are resistant to rubbing.”​

The new products will be available at drugstores and mass-market retailers across Japan.

Research background​

When mask-wearing was the norm, consumers were observed to prefer matte lipsticks as colour transfer tended to be less severe in these.

At the same time, the problem of lipstick colour turning dull or staining cups has been a long-standing one. 

“Many make-up users seek a product that can keep the ‘freshly applied finish’ for a long time. So far, the majority of formulations that have achieved this contain a high amount of powder to improve adhesion or a film-forming agent to toughen the entire coating film. However, these methods make it difficult for the product to have any glossy effect,” ​the firm explained.

As such, Visée performed extensive research in the formulation of ingredients that promotes separation, formulation design that prevents the layers from mixing, and viscosity design that maintains thickness of the film coat layer.

“We focused on developing a lipstick formulation that cleanly separates into two layers. We were able to create a product with beautiful colours and a glossy finish that cannot be obtained in the usual matte type.”​

In a test conducted by the firm, it was found that the new product could maintain the glossiness and colour finish better and longer than a conventional product.

Colour transfer to a mask was also significantly reduced in the new product, compared to a regular lipstick.

“In addition, a professional colour judge from an external institution evaluated and validated the lasting effect of our innovation, while a questionnaire was completed by 33 test participants. Among them, about 90% said that the colour lasted for as long as eight hours.​

“​Going forward,​ we will consider applying this formulation technology in other products. We will also continue to carry out novel and useful R&D to manufacture products of value that fulfil consumer needs.” ​