According to Hong Xiang Wen, global senior director at Kenvue, the medical device category has been growing 2.5 times faster than derma beauty.
The company, which owns Japan’s top derma beauty brand Dr. Ci:Labo, believes this trend represents a huge opportunity.
“This represents an incremental opportunity for growth,” said Hong during the inaugural Beauty Forward Summit hosted by CosmeticsDesign-Asia.
“This particular category is growing in China but also growing in Europe and North America. This represents again a really important trend that we can see boosting dermocosmetic and medical aesthetics category in general.”
These devices are rising in popularity for their ability to boost the efficacy of topical products.
“Consumers are seeking transparency, efficacy, and science-backed solutions for their skin. They are not willing to compromise on either safety or efficacy. We see this trend of increased interest in science and doctors focused on skin health for a beauty outcome,” said Hong.
The category is also being driven by another major trend – the normalisation of non-invasive aesthetic procedures.
Hong highlighted that many patients use devices during post-treatment care.
“Beauty devices are being used by consumers at home to continue to boost the efficacy of the treatment, perhaps even after going to the clinic.”
The same trends are also boosting the demand for quasi-drugs, specifically in Japan where it is a separate category.
“In Japan, it seems like a must-have right now. If you want to make strong claims on anti-wrinkle for instance, you need to have a quasi-drug. It is like a shortcut for consumers to understand efficacy. When they see it is a quasi-drug, they know it’s backed by regulations and the ingredients are highly regulated. So, it’s a barometer of safety and efficacy,” said Hong.
Proactive skin care
The company has observed that the global dermocosmetics category was really growing at an accelerated pace, with China and the US as its biggest growth drivers.
“By 2026, Asia Pacific will be the number one region driving the growth of the skin health category,” said Hong.
Zooming into China, the firm has observed anti-ageing growing the fastest at 26%. Comparatively, skin brightening, and sensitive skin categories are growing at 13% and 3% respectively.
This is driven by growing interest from younger consumers – Gen Zs and millennials – which are driving the overall derma beauty category globally.
“There’s a focus on proactive prevention. Even before the problem comes, consumers are already looking for how to prevent them. They are starting anti-ageing at a very early age. We call that category pre-ageing in China. We see 18-year-olds using anti-ageing products and even 13-year-olds seem to be interested in beauty and ingredients,” said Hong.
She added that the access to medical aesthetic procedures were also influencing the development of derma beauty products.
“In dermocosmetics, we don’t see these evolutions in the clinic as a threat. In fact, the role of dermocosmetics is to work adjunct with all these fabulous treatments,” said Hong.
She noted that Dr. Ci:Labo was founded by dermatologist Dr. Yoshinori Shirono of the Shirono Clinic.
In keeping with the founder’s philosophy, the brand works closely with dermatologists and the medical community to ensure its products are in line with trends in the medical space.
Hong said: “Our work in R&D is looking at how we can maintain the effects of these treatments or how to boost their efficacy. This is the philosophy of our founder, who is a dermatologist that will send patients home with at-home treatments to prolong the treatment effects and treat the skin post-treatment because there can be a bit of irritation.”
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