Ironically, some of the difficulty is due to the advancement of colour cosmetics technology and the global demand for waterproof products.
“At the top of the list are foundations and concealers, no doubt. This is where most of the research in formulation goes because waterproof, sweatproof, 24-hour foundations, are a big part of the beauty trend in the last ten years or so. Second on the list would be eyeliners. It's really hard to find an eyeliner that is not waterproof, because that is where most of the demand is in the market,” said Claudia Nour, the founder of the eponymous halal beauty brand.
The brand offers a range of wudhu-friendly makeup, including concealers, blushers, and eyeliners.
According to Claudia, there are two paths manufacturers often take when developing wudhu-friendly makeup.
The first is formulating products that do not contain film-forming ingredients, which means that the makeup formulation will not be able to withstand contact with water.
This can give Muslims some reassurance when performing ablution, Claudia told CosmeticsDesign-Asia.
“One of the things my customers mention is that seeing the makeup fade when washing their face gives them peace of mind, because they are sure that nothing is preventing their practice, and they are doing their best to protect it.”
Alternatively, some manufacturers create products that have a ‘breathable’ film, which still allows water to pass through, ensuring users will be able to complete wudhu successfully.
Such claims can be commonly found with nail polish.
“This way would require thorough testing and certification because companies would have to prove that even though there is no change in the makeup, the water is still passing through. I think this is a more complicated approach because women who are searching for wudhu friendly makeup are already prioritising their prayer,” said Claudia.
What is wudhu?
Wudhu is a ritual cleansing that Muslims do five times a day before praying.
Nour explained how using non-wudhu-friendly makeup can present itself as a hurdle when performing the ritual.
“Part of it is washing our faces, and for the wudhu to be valid, the water has to reach the skin, so makeup products that are waterproof and create a film on the skin that repel water are not an ideal product for Muslim women. We either have to perform our prayers with the doubt that our preparation was not complete, or we have to remove the makeup each time which is a hassle and is takes up a lot of time.”
It is a common misunderstanding that all halal products are wudhu-friendly.
“Halal products, at the minimum, are products that do not contain impermissible ingredients, like pork, alcohol and carmine. So, you can see that it can be very easy to have a product that is waterproof and also halal. Because ingredients like silicone, waxes and polymers – which are the main ingredients use to create waterproof ingredients – are halal for us to use.”
Claudia hopes that halal certifications will evolve more holistically to encompass such factors.
“I would love to see it have a broader determination that goes beyond the ingredients,” she said.
“I mentioned that at the bare minimum halal makeup applies to products that are free of alcohol, pork and carmine. But in the greater sense it should also include things like skin-sustaining ingredients, fair trade practices and ethical sourcing of ingredients.
“Islam calls to justice in everything we do, and having a product that is free of impermissible ingredients, but that harms the people making it, or the earth when it is extracted is a clear conflict of values.”
Claudia acknowledged that it would be challenging for halal certification bodies to encompass all these factors and emphasised that till then, Muslim business owners are responsible for ensuring their consumers are making informed decisions.
“I don't believe there is a certification body that is strong enough to ensure this broader idea, so until then I think each Muslim business owner must hold itself to account with the practices they have in their business.”
