The recent study, published in the Cosmetics journal, found that crude procyanidin extracted from green soybean seeds could address issues such as hyperpigmentation.
At a concentration of 10 mg/mL, the extract was able to inhibit tyrosinase activity by over 60%.
According to the researchers, the performance of extract was greater than kojic acid which was used as a positive control
Tyrosinase is an enzyme that plays a key role in melanin production, which contributes to skin pigmentation.
According to the researchers, the strong antioxidant capacity of green soybean seeds is link to their high phenolic content.
The extract was obtained using ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE).
“The ultrasonic approach is an established environmentally friendly bio-refining technology, primarily because it may decrease costs, shorten operation time, consume less energy, and yield higher quantities.”
Safe and stable
The green soybean extract was most effective at inhibiting tyrosinase when extracted at a temperature of 15°C for 20 minutes, according to the study.
Interestingly, the extract was not only determined to be non-toxic but also stimulated the growth of skin fibroblast cells
When formulated into a serum, the extract remained stable and retained its bioactive compounds and antioxidant activity for up to 12 weeks.
After 12 weeks, the extract retained over 80% of its bioactive compounds and antioxidant at a temperature of 25°C.
They highlighted that the stability of the facial serum containing extract was at its best under storage conditions of 4°C for four weeks.
The study noted that extract’s high tyrosinase inhibitory activity, non-toxic nature, and stability in a formulation make it a promising alternative to existing anti-pigmentation ingredients.
The study concluded: “It can be concluded that the crude procyanidin extract exhibits potential efficacy as a component for cosmeceuticals, particularly with regard to anti-aging, skin-whitening, and antioxidant applications.
“This study displays the potential for the preparation of crude procyanidin extract powder from GSS via UAE under optimal conditions, which could have extensive applications in the cosmetics industry. This process may be readily feasible for commercial-scale serum production using a lower temperature, consuming less energy, and without the use of organic solvents.”
The study noted that further research was needed to optimise the extraction process and to evaluate the long-term effects of the extract on skin.
Cosmetics
Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity of Crude Procyanidin Extract from Green Soybean Seed and the Stability of Bioactive Compounds in an Anti-Aging Skin Care Formulation
Authors: Kanyarat Pohntadavit et al.
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11050178
