Not always the greenest: Performance gaps and sustainability doubts challenge bio-based appeal
In the last few years, ingredient companies, including Dow Personal Care, have developed bio-based film formers that meet the demand for sustainable cosmetic products.
However, bio-based film formers have their limitations, mainly that they might not be able to meet the high-performance demands of Asian consumers.
“Bio-based film formers are sometimes not so long-lasting, for example, they may not be as transfer resistant. This is where the synthetic part comes in, the cross-linking. This is the balance we need to do to get the performance there,” said Cedric Toh, Senior Marketing Manager for Dow Personal Care, APAC.
He acknowledged that sustainability would continue to be an important value for cosmetic consumers, even in APAC.
“The biggest challenge mankind is facing today is climate change – we are all feeling the effects of it. Down the road, we are going to place more importance on climate protection.”
He highlighted that more education needs to be done to raise awareness that synthetics are not always inherently bad for the environment.
“Decarbonisation is the main thing for companies now, be it consumer companies or companies like Dow. Even bio-based products can use a lot of energy to manufacture and that’s not helping the environment. We are educating our customers that bio-based products are not always good for the environment.”
New film former launches
Dow marked this year’s in-cosmetics Asia with the global launch of two new high-performance silicone resin film formers, DOWSIL MQ-1610 ID Resin and DOWSIL MQ-1650 ID Resin.
Both DOWSIL MQ-1610 ID Resin and DOWSIL MQ-1650 ID Resin are dispersed in isododecane for enhanced durability in cosmetics. They are available as liquids, making them easier to formulate with.
According to the firm, the products deliver long-lasting benefits, including water and sebum resistance, making them ideal for extended-wear beauty products.
The company believes that in APAC, consumers still value performance and efficacy over other factors.
“Based on research from Mintel, KPMG, the number one thing that drives consumers to buy again is loyalty. And performance inspires brand loyalty. Ultimately for the consumer, they are still looking for performance – especially in Asia Pacific.
Dow highlighted the use of DOWSIL MQ-1650 ID Resin in sun protection in and colour cosmetic formulas, catering to consumer demand for high-performance products that withstand environmental factors while maintaining comfort.
According to Dow’s research about half of new product launches with film formers originated from APAC, highlighting a major demand in this region.
This was driven by the demand for colour cosmetics and sun care products.
Dow anticipates that this trend will continue with higher demand for performance and affordability in the region.
“The demand for products that deliver efficacy and functionality remains strong, especially in Asia, where consumers seek value for money, backed by science and quality ingredients. The new products and formulation concepts that Dow launches at in-cosmetics Asia this year aim to deliver in-formulation efficacy and performance while balancing sustainability,” said Toh.
