Reducing agents in shampoos may tackle flyaways, frizz without damage: South Korean study
Researchers at the LG H&H R&D Centre conducted a study with the goal of developing a less invasive solution that could deliver comparable results without compromising hair health.
Using Raman spectroscopy and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), the researchers identified that shampoos with reducing agents induce structural changes in the hair's protein.
The study also explored other methods to control flyaways and frizz, such as moisturising agents (erythritol and xylitol) and antioxidants (sodium metabisulfite and erythorbic acid).
While these ingredients showed some promise in managing static electricity and preventing radical damage, they were less effective than reducing agents in decreasing FAF values.
By eliminating oxidizing agents, the study proposed a safer and more effective strategy to manage flyaways and frizz — a problem that affects many individuals, particularly those with straight or slightly curly hair.
Safe and effective, even after repeated use
While reducing agents are traditionally associated with hair damage, this study demonstrated that incorporating them into shampoo formulations could help maintain hair integrity.
Tensile strength tests showed no significant reduction in hair strength even after 56 washes with the ATG-containing shampoo, suggesting that the treatment was not only effective but also safe for regular use.
Unlike conventional treatments that would typically rely on heat or physical devices to straighten hair, this method achieved results during the washing process. The study found that simply combing and drying hair after shampoo application were sufficient to achieve a smooth, aligned appearance.
Specifically, the tightly wound α-helical structures transitioned into more relaxed random coils. This alteration in the hair's internal morphology reduced surface static electricity, a primary contributor to flyaways and frizz.
Tailored solutions for diverse hair types
Hair flyaways occur when individual strands become misaligned, often due to static electricity or the hair's structural shape. Frizz, a related issue, refers to the appearance of curls or kinks that resist straightening even with treatments.
Factors such as humidity, moisture loss, and physical damage from brushing, heat or harsh towel drying also exacerbate both phenomena.
While traditional treatments like perming or straightening break and reform disulfide bonds to change the structure of hair, these methods can lead to severe damage.
For instance, ammonium thioglycolate (ATG), a widely used reducing agent in perms, has been shown to damage hair and cause irritation. Animal studies have also raised concerns about its toxicity and potential sensitisation risks.
The study quantified the results using the Flyaway and Frizz (FAF) value, which measures the degree of misalignment in hair strands. The researchers tested formulations combining ATG with shampoo, as well as alternatives like L-cysteine and sodium sulfite, both known for their hair-relaxing properties.
Subsequently, they found that hair treated with reducing-agent shampoos showed a notable decrease in FAF value, particularly when ATG was used at concentrations of 0.3% or higher. This innovation offers an alternative to traditional treatments, which often require both reducing and oxidizing agents and are associated with significant hair damage.
Flyaways and frizz are more prevalent in hair with lower lipid content, which is typical of straight or slightly wavy hair. Lipids, which naturally occur in hair, play a significant role in maintaining hair alignment. However, manipulating lipid levels within the hair remains challenging due to their movement through the cell membrane complex.
The study also acknowledged that hair shape and lipid composition varied significantly across ethnicities. For instance, curly hair common in individuals of African descent tended to have higher lipid content, which naturally mitigated frizz.
As such, future formulations may need to consider these variations to provide customised solutions for different hair types and textures.
Implications for the cosmetics industry
The study’s findings present a significant opportunity for the cosmetics industry to innovate haircare products that deliver long-term solutions for flyaways and frizz. Shampoos that work during the cleansing process, without requiring heat or additional styling products, could fill a gap in the market for consumers seeking low-maintenance hair care.
However, the researchers also emphasised the need for additional studies to evaluate potential scalp irritation from prolonged use of reducing agents. Establishing safe concentration thresholds and testing on a broader range of hair types will be critical to bringing these products to market.
Source: Cosmetics
“The Anti-Flyaway/Frizz Effect by Inducing the α-Helical Structure Transition of Hair”
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060189
Authors: Sang-Hun Song, et al.
