Known for its antioxidant, anti-ageing, and skin-brightening properties, pterostilbene has traditionally struggled to meet its potential due to its poor water solubility and limited skin penetration.
However, researchers from China have now developed PT-NLPs using a high-shear microjet homogenisation technique, opening the door to its application in advanced cosmetic formulations.
Pterostilbene is a lipid-soluble polyphenol derived from blueberries and grapes.
Nanotechnology has enabled a significant leap forward in delivering active ingredients to the skin. PT-NLPs encapsulate pterostilbene within lipid-based nanoparticles, improving its solubility, stability, and ability to penetrate the skin barrier.
Researchers at Jiangmen Polytechnic and Weiyue (Jiangmen) Biotechnology Co., Ltd. In Guangdong, China conducted a study that demonstrated how the use of PT-NLPs could revolutionise cosmetic products, offering manufacturers a scalable solution to meet consumer demand for effective, fast-acting skin care.
Stability and transdermal delivery drive innovation
One of the most significant advantages of PT-NLPs is their ability to enhance the stability and transdermal delivery of pterostilbene. Nanoliposomes, with their unique hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties, can stabilise active ingredients by encapsulating them in lipid bilayers. This protects the ingredient from degradation while improving its bioavailability. For pterostilbene, this encapsulation resolves the critical issue of its low water solubility, which previously limited its use in cosmetics.
The study conducted rigorous stability testing to assess PT-NLPs under various storage conditions. Even after 28 days at 45°C, the particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), and surface charge of the nanoparticles showed minimal changes. This indicated a highly stable formulation capable of withstanding the storage demands of commercial cosmetic products.
Additionally, PT-NLPs retained their physical and chemical properties over extended periods, demonstrating that they could maintain their efficacy during long-term storage.
The research also highlighted PT-NLPs' ability to improve skin retention. In vitro testing showed a 1.7-fold increase in skin retention compared to free pterostilbene solutions. This means PT-NLPs were better able to penetrate the skin’s upper layers and remain active for longer, delivering sustained benefits.
Moreover, the study confirmed that PT-NLPs did not cross the blood-brain barrier, eliminating concerns about systemic toxicity and ensuring the ingredient’s safety for topical applications.
Proven efficacy in human trials
The researchers tested the efficacy of PT-NLPs in a whitening serum through human trials, which prouduced impressive results. Over a 14-day period, participants experienced visible improvements in skin tone, brightness and sensitivity.
They also reported a reduction in dullness and pigmentation, with instrumental tests confirming these results. Measurements showed increases in skin brightness values and decreases in pigmentation and redness levels.
Furthermore, the whitening serum enhanced skin barrier function, providing soothing and reparative benefits. The study attributed these results to PT-NLPs' superior ability to adhere to the skin and deliver active ingredients effectively.
Unlike traditional pterostilbene formulations, PT-NLPs showed consistent performance across all participants, making them a reliable choice for cosmetics manufacturers aiming to create high-performance products.
In addition to efficacy, the study focused on safety. The researchers conducted closed patch tests on human volunteers to assess the risk of skin irritation or adverse reactions. Across all observation points, PT-NLPs showed no signs of irritation, confirming their suitability for use in skin care products.
The safety profile of PT-NLPs was further enhanced by their neutral charge, which improved adhesion to human skin while minimising the risk of irritation. This represented a significant advantage over conventional nano-encapsulation systems, which have often struggled with poor adhesion due to negatively charged particles.
Scalable manufacturing for commercial applications
The high-shear microjet homogenisation technique used to create PT-NLPs was found to be not only effective but also scalable. This process reduced particle size to under 20nm, enabling precise control over the formulation and ensuring consistent quality. For cosmetics manufacturers, this method could offer an efficient way to incorporate advanced nanotechnology into products without significant changes to existing production lines.
The scalability of this technique also makes it well-suited for large-scale production, providing manufacturers with a cost-effective solution to meet growing consumer demand for innovative skin care. By enhancing the bioavailability and stability of active ingredients like pterostilbene, the process presents new possibilities for cosmetic and medical applications.
Future indications
The development of PT-NLPs marks a significant step forward for nanotechnology use in cosmetics. As consumers increasingly prioritise efficacy and safety in their skin care products, innovations like PT-NLPs offer a compelling value proposition. The ability to deliver visible results in a short timeframe while ensuring product stability and safety aligns with market demands for advanced, science-backed formulations.
For cosmetics manufacturers, PT-NLPs provide an opportunity to differentiate their products in a crowded market. By incorporating this technology into their formulations, brands can offer novel solutions that address common skin concerns, such as dullness, pigmentation and sensitivity. Furthermore, the robust safety profile of PT-NLPs makes them suitable for a wide range of applications, from anti-ageing creams to brightening serums.
The study demonstrated the transformative potential of PT-NLPs in the cosmetics industry. By overcoming the solubility and penetration challenges of pterostilbene, this nanotechnology could enhance skin whitening, improve product stability, and ensure safety for users.
As nanotechnology continues to advance, formulations like PT-NLPs could pave the way for a new generation of high-performance cosmetics that combine science, safety, and effectiveness.
Source: Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology
“Stability and efficacy of pterostilbene nanoliposomes in cosmetic applications: A comprehensive study”
https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2024.100056
Authors: Li Jianxin, et al.
