Sensitive skin is a global concern, affecting nearly half the world’s population. Characterised by heightened reactions to environmental, chemical and even emotional triggers, sensitive skin typically manifests through redness, itching, and discomfort. These symptoms often point to underlying issues, including weakened skin barriers, overactive nerve responses, and chronic inflammation.
An expert 2017 position paper from the Special Interest Group on Sensitive Skin at the International Forum for the Study of Itch defined the condition as a ‘skin sensory syndrome’. This state of hyperreactivity and low tolerance often reflects underlying damage to the skin-barrier function, making affected individuals more prone to allergic reactions.
Recent research reveals a growing understanding of these mechanisms, paving the way for targeted treatments and innovative skincare solutions. Researchers at the Fisheries Research Institute of Fujian and Shanghai Ocean University conducted a review to determine the mechanisms and unique characteristics of sensitive skin.
They focused on three pivotal strategies: enhancing skin-barrier repair, utilising specific active ingredients for anti-inflammatory interventions to alleviate symptoms, and reducing the activity of transient receptor potential vanilloid 1 (TRPV1) receptor. The TRPV1 receptor is a heat-sensitive ion channel that detects and transmits sensations of pain, heat, and inflammation, often activated by temperatures above 43°C, capsaicin, and acidic conditions.
Contributing factors to skin sensitivity
The review stated that a combination of internal predispositions and external stressors contributed to sensitive skin. Intrinsic factors such as genetic makeup, age and gender influence the condition, with higher prevalence rates among women.
According to the paper, studies have indicated that 60% to 70% of US women reported sensitive skin, compared to 50% to 60% of US men. The prevalence rate among British women was 51% and 38% among British men, and 36.7% among Indian women and 27.9% among Indian men.
External factors amplify these issues. Environmental pollutants, climate changes, and daily exposure to irritants like harsh cosmetics and household chemicals can exacerbate sensitive skin.
Tying modern habits to the rise in sensitivity cases, the review’s authors also noted: “Irregular lifestyles, frequent consumption of spicy food, and stress in life and work are common features of young individuals with sensitive skin.”
At its core, sensitive skin stems from three interlinked mechanisms — compromised barriers that lead to discomfort, nerve reactivity that amplifies symptoms, and inflammation that worsens the cycle.
Reduced ceramide content damages the skin barrier, increasing water loss and weakening defence capacity. This vulnerability makes the skin prone to irritants and allergens, triggering redness and dryness. At the same time, activated TRPV1 channels in those with sensitive skin cause burning and itching sensations.
Furthermore, the inflammatory response — driven by immune cells like mast cells — perpetuates the sensitivity. Histamine can attach to cells in the skin and nerves, setting off processes that cause inflammation and itching, pointing to a vicious cycle of irritation.
Three strategies for relief
Experts are focusing on three main approaches to alleviate sensitive skin, one of which is to rebuild the skin’s barrier. Oils like coconut oil and green thorn fruit oil have shown promise in restoring hydration and strengthening the skin.
Green thorn fruit oil promotes the expression of acid ceramidase, which aids skin barrier repair. Additionally, polysaccharides like hyaluronic acid and plant-based extracts such as aloe vera further enhance moisture retention and barrier repair
The second approach involves calming nerve activity. TRPV1 antagonists, both synthetic and natural, are emerging as effective solutions. The review highlighted trans-4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, a synthetic compound that could effectively inhibit capsaicin-induced calcium influx, relieving irritation symptom like stinging pain. Plant-based extracts like tangerine fruit and purslane also showed potential in reducing TRPV1 activity.
The third approach is to fight inflammation naturally. Anti-inflammatory compounds from natural sources, including curcumin, quercetin and asiaticoside, target inflammatory pathways. These substances inhibit the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines and alleviate skin redness and swelling.
Additionally, to assess the efficacy of treatments, researchers have used both laboratory and clinical methods. Some studies have used in vitro assays to test the ability of compounds to inhibit inflammatory enzymes, while clinical trials have evaluated outcomes like reduced redness and improved hydration. The review pinpointed hyaluronidase inhibition as a common method to assess the anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing effects of compounds.
What’s next for sensitive skin research?
As the cosmetic industry advances, researchers intend to develop more effective and multifunctional solutions. The review outlined three key goals: exploring novel active ingredients, enhancing bioavailability through nanotechnology, and investigating the relationship between environmental factors and skin sensitivity.
The review concluded: “With the deepening of our understanding of the mechanisms of sensitive skin and progress in research on active substances with skin-soothing effects, we will be able to identify and deal with sensitive skin more effectively and provide a better scientific basis to prevent and treat sensitive skin. This will contribute to further innovations in the cosmetic industry, aid consumers in managing sensitive skin better, and enhance the quality of life of sensitive-skin sufferers.”
Source: Cosmetics
“Mechanisms of Sensitive Skin and the Soothing Effects of Active Compounds: A Review”
https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060190
Authors: Bei Chen, et al.
