Reimagining skin care: How bio-based succinic acid could transform cosmetics

Could bio-based succinic acid be the key to reducing the cosmetics industry's carbon footprint while enhancing skincare efficacy? Experts weigh in.
Could bio-based succinic acid be the key to reducing the cosmetics industry's carbon footprint while enhancing skincare efficacy? Experts weigh in. (Getty Images)

In this CosmeticsDesign Q&A, we speak to the experts for a closer look at how the use of renewable resources is reshaping the production of essential skin care ingredients like succinic acid.

Succinic acid is emerging as a pivotal ingredient in the skin care industry and is celebrated for its acne-fighting properties and skin-friendly profile. However, traditional production methods, reliant on petroleum, pose significant sustainability challenges and contribute to environmental concerns.

In response, Professor Huimin Zhao, a biochemical engineering expert at the University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign (UIUC), has pioneered a more sustainable production approach using sugarcane fermentation. This innovative method reduces the carbon footprint of succinic acid production and sets a new standard for eco-friendly practices in the cosmetics sector.

The research, funded by BioMADE, a national organization dedicated to advancing bio-industrial manufacturing, underscores the industry’s potential for a greener future. Melanie Tomczak, BioMADE’s Chief Technology Officer and Head of Programs highlights the broader implications of Dr. Zhao’s work and the importance of supporting sustainable technology development.

In this CosmeticsDesign Q&A, Dr. Zhao and Ms. Tomczak discuss bio-based succinic acid’s environmental benefits, scalability, and transformative potential in the skin care market.

CDU: Could you provide an overview of how your bio-based production method using sugarcane fermentation works? What are the key steps in the process, and how does it differ from traditional methods?

Dr. Huimin Zhao (HZ): Bio-based succinic acid production uses sugarcane as a renewable raw material. The process starts by crushing sugarcane to extract its juice, which contains sucrose as a carbon source for the fermentation process.

Our engineered microorganism then converts sucrose into succinic acid. After fermentation, the succinic acid is purified and concentrated for use.

This method differs from petroleum-based production by using renewable resources, requiring less energy, and generating fewer harmful by-products. It’s a cleaner, more sustainable alternative.

CDU: How does the current petroleum-based production of succinic acid impact the environment, and what are its primary sustainability challenges?

HZ: Petroleum-based succinic acid production relies on fossil fuels, contributing to greenhouse gas emissions and climate change. The process is energy-intensive and produces chemical by-products that can harm ecosystems if not properly managed.

Extracting and refining petroleum depletes non-renewable resources and can lead to environmental disasters like oil spills. The primary sustainability challenges include reducing carbon emissions, minimizing waste, and finding renewable alternatives to petroleum.

CDU: Regarding environmental impact, how does bio-based succinic acid production compare with petroleum-based production? Are there specific benefits in terms of greenhouse gas emissions or resource use?

Melanie Tomczak (MT): Researchers used tools like techno-economic analysis and life cycle assessment to show that this process is financially viable. These tools also suggest that this process could reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 34% to 90%, relative to fossil fuel-based production processes.

CDU: What challenges did you face in developing this sustainable production method, and how were they overcome?

HZ: Developing a bio-based method required optimizing microorganisms to efficiently convert sugars into succinic acid. High yields and low production costs were key challenges.

Controlling fermentation conditions, such as pH and temperature, also needed fine-tuning, which associates with production cost. These challenges were overcome through metabolic engineering of microorganisms, improving fermentation techniques, and scaling up processes in a cost-effective manner.

Collaboration and iterative testing were critical to success.

CDU: How scalable is this bio-based method of succinic acid production, and what steps are necessary to implement it on a larger, industrial level?

MT: This project showed that bio-based succinic acid production is feasible and economically viable at an industrial level.

Researchers scaled up their fermentation process to an industrial pilot scale in batch mode with a scaling factor of 300× and achieved succinic acid production at a titer of greater than 60 g/L.

This project highlights how bio-based chemicals can be produced at an industrially relevant scale and are economically competitive. BioMADE and its members and projects are demonstrating that bioindustrial manufacturing can unlock a new future where everyday chemicals, materials, and more are domestically produced through the power of biology.

CDU: Could you explain why succinic acid is so popular in acne-fighting skin care, and what makes it particularly effective in addressing this skin concern?

HZ: Succinic acid is popular in skin care because it’s a gentle, multi-functional ingredient that helps fight acne without irritating the skin. It works by reducing inflammation, which calms red, swollen pimples.

Succinic acid also has antibacterial properties that help stop acne-causing bacteria from spreading. Additionally, it gently exfoliates the skin, clearing away dead cells that can clog pores, and it helps balance oil production.

Unlike stronger acids, succinic acid is less likely to cause dryness or sensitivity, making it suitable for people with various skin types, including sensitive skin.

CDU: Can you speak to the potential cost implications for manufacturers in the cosmetics and personal care industry looking to transition to bio-based succinic acid? Are there cost savings or other economic benefits?

HZ: Initially, bio-based succinic acid may have higher production costs due to technology development and scaling. However, as the process becomes more efficient and customer demand grows, costs are expected to decrease.

Manufacturers could benefit from long-term savings due to stable raw material prices and reduced energy use. Eco-friendly products also appeal to consumers, potentially boosting sales and brand loyalty, which can offset upfront costs.

CDU: What impact do you hope this eco-friendly production method will have on the skin care and cosmetics industry as a whole?

HZ: We hope this method encourages widespread adoption of sustainable practices in the skin care and cosmetics industry. Using bio-based ingredients like succinic acid can reduce the industry’s environmental footprint, align with consumer demand for eco-conscious products, and inspire innovation.

Over time, this could lead to a significant shift toward greener production methods across the sector.

CDU: Beyond skin care, do you foresee applications for bio-based succinic acid in other types of cosmetic or personal care products?

HZ: Yes, bio-based succinic acid has potential in other cosmetic products, like hair care and body care. Its anti-inflammatory and exfoliating properties can benefit scalp treatments and body lotions.

It can also be used as a natural pH adjuster or humectant, helping maintain product stability and skin hydration. The versatility of succinic acid makes it suitable for a wide range of applications.

CDU: With the cosmetics industry increasingly focusing on sustainability, how do you envision the role of bio-based ingredients evolving over the next few years?

HZ: The demand for sustainable ingredients will keep growing as consumers and brands prioritize environmental responsibility. Bio-based ingredients will likely become more mainstream as technologies improve, making them cost-effective and widely available.

Over the next few years, we can expect stricter regulations and stronger incentives for using eco-friendly alternatives, driving innovation in sustainable formulations.

CDU: What advice would you give to skin care brands that are interested in adopting more sustainable ingredients but are concerned about maintaining efficacy and consumer trust?

HZ: Start by researching ingredients that align with your brand values and meet consumer needs. Test sustainable options to ensure they deliver the same or better results as traditional ingredients.

Transparency is key—educate consumers about why you’re choosing eco-friendly ingredients and their benefits. Partnering with reliable suppliers and communicating your sustainability goals can help build trust and differentiate your brand.