The Japanese beauty company explained that it has a dual-action mechanism, and its core innovation is that it goes beyond simply piercing the skin to deliver actives.
First, like conventional microneedles, it creates microchannels on the skin’s surface, enabling the effective delivery of active ingredients.
At the same time, the microneedles exert pressure on the deeper layers of the skin to stimulate blood circulation and influence gene expression simultaneously.
According to the study the novel microneedle design was able to change the “the expression of gene groups related to the extracellular matrix, such as immunity, blood vessels, and collagen.”
Shiseido researchers explained that it works by gently applying pressure to the skin to enhance blood flow and stimulate changes in gene activity related to skin structure and function.
The study emphasised that this does not damage the skin.
Instead, this approach promotes skin improvement by encouraging natural regenerative processes, making it potentially safer and less invasive.
Optimised needle shape
This research was first presented at the 34th IFSCC Conference 2024.
The key to this technology is the shape of the needle, said the study, which was optimised for its specific function.
Various microneedle shapes were studied to determine the optimal shape that would allow the needle to precisely penetrate “only the superficial layers of the skin” while “stimulating to the deeper layers of the skin”.
“The next-generation microneedle is capable of delivering active ingredients into the skin. Evaluation of drug permeability revealed that it significantly enhances the permeation of water-soluble active ingredients such as niacinamide, while enabling their rapid and deeper delivery,” said the researchers.
The patent-pending technology was tested with niacinamide and showed improvement over a shorter period of time compared to normal topical application.
Additionally, the microneedles significantly reduced the volume of the lower half of the face after two weeks, improved sagging grades, and made nasolabial folds shallower and shorter after eight weeks.
Furthermore, a reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was observed, leading the study to conclude that it could enhance skin barrier function rather than disrupt it.
Addressing microneedle limitations
The development of this advanced microneedle technology is particularly relevant now due to the evolving landscape of cosmetic medical treatments and rising consumer expectations, said the firm.
“In recent years, cosmetic medical treatments have become a common way to achieve ideal skin, and expectations for highly effective cosmetic products have risen. Microneedles, a popular aesthetic procedure, create micro-injuries in the skin to enhance penetration and trigger a wound-healing response, which reconstructs the deeper skin structure for significant effects.”
However, microneedling comes with its fair share of limitations, including invasiveness and discomfort for the end-user.
Additionally, conventional microneedles are limited in the type and amount of ingredients, which the firm claims are solved with its unique push mechanism.
With this improved microneedle design, the firm aims to offer a less invasive alternative to conventional microneedle procedures that offers a comparable efficacy.
By developing this next-generation microneedle Shiseido addresses key market demands for highly effective, minimally invasive treatments with substantial, scientifically backed results.
Embracing the future
On January 16, Shiseido announced that it would debut this technology on the market under its SHISEISO Bio Performance range.
The MicroClick Concentrate will be on sale from May 1 in Japan for 36,300 (USD233).
According to the brand, the applicator is equipped with 18 microneedles and is disposable.
The formula itself contains niacinamide and a Barrier Fill Complex to fortify the skin barrier.
The formula is housed within the applicator and is dispensed with a click button on the top.
It believes that this product is the “future of skin care that targets and treats your concerns with micro-precision”.
