in-cosmetics coverage

Who knew! Sea anemone found to combat skin ageing

20-Apr-2015 - Last updated on 20-Apr-2015 at 16:08 GMT

On speaking with Dr Alain Khaiat at in-cosmetics Barcelona, he directed Cosmetics Design's attention to his relationship with StartletDerma, whose work with sea anemones has led to a new method in collagen delivery.

Alain's colleagues, the founders of StartletDerma have developed a natural microinjection system based on the stinging cells of the Cnidaria sea anemone for a sustainable way of delivering higher amounts of marine collagen.

The scientists say that the same micro injectors used by sea anemone to inject venom into their prey can be collected to deliver the likes of anti-wrinkle and brightening creams, deeper into the skin.

"Topical marine collagen is known as a naturally rejuvenating substance that replenishes the body’s own collagen supply, providing nutrients to rebuild collagen types I and III cells," says company CEO, Amir Toren.

Previously, it was demonstrated by adding collagen to cosmetic emulsions, structural processes and moisturizing effects were enhanced in the skin in a limited manner, depending on the bio availability of the collagen.

Two-part product based on discovery

After discovering a method to safely harvest the sea anemone, the scientists have now developed a product that comes in two parts: one part is a water-based cosmetic formula that is sprayed on the skin; the other is the 'Inocyte' formulation, composed of a collagen-based capsule filled with the active cosmetic ingredient.

The water-based product sets off the firing mechanism within the micro-injectors, once the sea anemone-derived Inocyte compound is applied.

The research conducted by the two doctors over a decade ago originally focused on the stinging mechanism of jellyfish, with the pair hoping to develop a sunscreen to protect against jellyfish stings, a common and painful occurrence for swimmers in late summer months.

However, the researchers immediately redirected the finding to focus on the starlet sea anemone micro-injector defense mechanism, what they believe is the key to making the most of cosmetic products by channeling them deeper into the skin.

'Sea Anemone Delivery of Collagen and γ-PGA for Anti-aging Benefits' Apr 7, 2015| By: Yossi Tal, PhD, Einav Danon and Amir Toren, PhD, StarletDerma Ltd., Caesarea, Israel; and Alain Khaiat, PhD, Seers Consulting, Singapore.