Non-invasive but less effective: Peptides, botanical extracts struggle to match Botox efficacy – Review

Botox, or Botulinumtoxin, is a long-standing “cornerstone in the treatment of dynamic wrinkles”, said researchers.

Dynamic wrinkles are wrinkles that appear on the skin due to repetitive facial movements and expressions.

Its primary mechanism involves temporarily paralysing underlying muscle activity, effectively reducing the formation of wrinkles. Results are usually rapid and noticeable within days of treatment.

However, consumer preference for non-invasive options remains strong due to minimal downtime, perceived safety, and heightened demand for ‘clean’ beauty products.

Topical products that typically feature peptides and botanical extracts aim to mimic Botox effects through an array of mechanisms such as SNARE complex inhibition, modulation of calcium and sodium channels, and interactions with acetylcholine receptors, contributing to muscle relaxation.

Despite the growing popularity of non-invasive options, the review highlighted substantial challenges and limitations which must be addressed to improve efficacy and consumer acceptance.

A key limitation lies in the inability of these topical agents to penetrate deeply enough into the skin to effectively target underlying muscles.

According to the review, this results in lesser effectiveness with a maximum of 52% wrinkle reduction compared to Botox's potential of 80%.

Furthermore, researchers highlighted that long-term clinical effects and safety were not well-documented.

“While initial results are promising, comprehensive studies over longer periods are necessary to establish their safety, potential side effects, and sustained efficacy. This uncertainty can deter consumers who are seeking reliable and proven solutions to their ageing concerns.”

Topical Botox

Additionally, the review explored topical Botox as a non-invasive alternative.

According to it, recent studies have shown promising results with various delivery systems for topical wrinkle treatments.

Nanoparticle-based formulations have proven effective, achieving a notable 25% reduction in wrinkle depth after four weeks of daily application. On the flipside, placebos only demonstrated a 5% reduction.

Additionally, liposomal delivery systems have reported a substantial 30% improvement in wrinkle severity over an eight-week period.

Lastly, peptide-based carriers have also demonstrated their efficacy, achieving 20% reduction in periorbital wrinkles after six weeks of treatment.

These findings underscore the potential of topical botulinum toxin as a viable non-invasive option for wrinkle reduction, albeit with varied efficacy depending on formulation and delivery method.

The review expects research to focus on enhancing the delivery method with technology such as microencapsulation and nanotechnology.

It added that further studies are needed to explore how these topical agents can be optimally combined with other ingredients, such as light therapy or mechanical stimulation, to maximise their benefits.

Furthermore, the review suggests that research should focus on personalised products and ingredients for greater effectiveness.

Other challenges

Additionally, the review highlighted weaknesses in the regulatory landscape.

“The market for dynamic wrinkle ingredients also lacks stringent regulatory oversight for topical anti-ageing products compared to invasive procedures. This can lead to the proliferation of products with unsubstantiated claims, potentially misleading consumers and eroding trust in non-invasive ingredients.”

Research should also broaden its scope to encompass diverse demographic groups, ensuring that the effectiveness of applications is comprehensive and inclusive.

“By addressing these challenges and leveraging innovative technologies and regulatory improvements, the future of treating dynamic wrinkles can shift towards more effective, safer, and accessible non-invasive options. This shift promises to revolutionise the approach to anti-aging ingredients and aligns with the increasing consumer demand for non-toxic, sustainable, and gentle skin care solutions.”

Source: Cosmetics

Sustainable Dynamic Wrinkle Efficacy: Non-Invasive Peptides as the Future of Botox Alternatives​

Authors: Nguyen et al.

https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040118