Non-steroidal option? Nanoemulgel could position essential oils as viable alternative – Review

The review, conducted by Malaysian researchers, observed that the cosmeceutical industry had growing interest in nanoemulgel technology as a solution for the topical application of essential oils.

Essential oils are well-known for their wide-ranging functional properties, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant effects.

“Various EOs have been documented to have promising applications across several domains, including cosmeceuticals, food preservatives, and pharmaceuticals, owing to their antimicrobial, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, antitumor, antioxidant, and aromatic properties.”

However, their use in skin care is hindered by their high volatility, susceptibility to oxidation, and potential to cause skin irritation when applied directly.

To address these challenges, the industry has sought out novel carrier systems for the topical application of essential oils.

One such as nanoemulgel, which is a “hybrid technology combining nanoemulsion and a gelling phase”.

Not only does it enhance the bioadhesive benefits of essential oils, but it also minimises their irritating effects.

This technology also protects the bioactive components of EOs from oxidation through encapsulation, further boosting their stability and effectiveness in topical applications.

According to the review, nanoemulgels demonstrate improvements in thixotropic properties.

Additionally, they are easily spreadable, water-soluble, non-greasy, and easy to remove. They also have a longer shelf life, and they provide an emollient effect 

An NSAID alternative​

The review investigated essential oil nanoemulgels as NSAIDs.

It found that the anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, as well as drug-solubilising properties of essential oils in a nanoemulgel formulation held promise for versatile applications in the cosmeceutical industry. 

Furthermore, the review found that the nanoemulgel with essential oils could also serve as a penetration enhancer for various cosmeceutical agents, depending on their intended application.

“The utilisation of nanoemulgel technology not only enhances the bioadhesive benefits and skin permeation of EOs for topical delivery but also shields the EO components from oxidation through encapsulation.

Despite their potential, essential oil nanoemulgels have yet to be commercialised and further research will be needed to address key challenges.

“The formulation of the nanoemulgel, with regard to EO content and surfactant concentration, should be meticulously controlled during the fabrication process to prevent potential adverse effects. Further studies involving clinical trials are essential to substantiate the safety and efficacy of plant EO nanoemulgels before they can be clinically translated into routine applications.”

Additionally, the review noted that essential oil nanoemulgels should be compared against conventional ingredients on the market for their cosmeceutical effects.