Making sense of scents: Shiseido emphasises increasing importance of fragrance in skin care

In recent years, fragrances have taken a priority with consumers. The rise of wellness and self-care have positioned fragrances as part of a daily ritual, offering emotional and psychological benefits, such as stress relief or as a confidence booster.

Shiseido Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate is the brand’s signature serum and is celebrating its 10^th​ anniversary this year.

With 252 beauty awards under its belt since its introduction in 2014, ULTIMUNE has become a best-seller in 88 countries and regions. Since its introduction in 2014, the product has been updated thrice with new formulations.

According to Shiseido Scent Researcher Yuko Fukukita, the scent of Shiseido’s Ultimune Power Infusing Concentrate has also been updated accordingly to keep up with consumer needs “while preserving its conceptual notes and quality.”

The latest Ultimune’s fragrance architecture begins with a transparent green floral base note of rose and muguet as well as notes of pink pepper and cardamom.

“Recently, the brand has noticed that people are seeking not only beauty but also physical and mental well-being. In response to these changes in consumer preferences, Shiseido has been researching fragrances that positively affect the state of mind. The results of this research are utilised in ULTIMUNE,” said Fukukita.

Speaking to CosmeticsDesign-Asia, she said her team aimed to create a perfect balance of soothing, gentle notes and fresh notes that can calm consumers when they are on edge or energise them when they are tired.

The development of the scent is a culmination of Fukukita’s research into fragrances and their feel-good effect on people.

“Understanding the product as well as target audience is important when choosing a fragrance. The fragrance must align with the product’s purpose, such as calming scents for nighttime products or invigorating scents for those used in the morning… Factors such as demographics, cultural preferences, and skin sensitivities should also be considered,” she explained.

The brand also conducted tests of the new scent on consumers with a special questionnaire.

“We have confirmed through a psychological questionnaire that the scent of ULTIMUNE leads users to a comfortable state of mind. The fragrance in ULTIMUNE aims to create aromachology benefits, such as enhancing relaxation, uplifting mood, and providing a more luxurious skincare experience at home,” said Fukukita.

Careful crafting

Unlike a perfume, fragrances in skin care are crafted not to overpower the senses or linger too long.

“The concentration of fragrances in an EDP is higher than that in skin care products, which ensures the longevity of the perfume. In contrast, the goal in skin care is to keep the scent subtle so that it does not overwhelm the skin, as the product is applied directly to the face and body. The scent in skin care can enhance the user’s experience without interfering with the product’s efficacy or causing irritation,” said Fukukita.

While consumers have a higher awareness of the benefits of fragrances, a handful are still cautious about using fragrance over concerns for potential skin irritation, allergies, and sensitivity.

“Testing should be conducted on the safety and stability of the product to ensure that it is non-irritating for skin and that the fragrances in the skin care formulation remain stable over time when exposed to different elements – light, heat or air.”